Tues 6th May 2003, Fairbanks to Chena Hot Springs

I was up early but not by choice, the walls and ceiling are so thin you can hear everything going on, so when others were up, I was up!

I’d packed last night so all that was left was to eat and get on the road.  Went back to the Co-Op Diner for breakfast again where I was remembered and welcomed – that’s so nice!  Then went for another walk round before checking out.  I managed to get safely out of Fairbanks, only taking two wrong turns.  In the UK, main roads have signs showing the road name or number periodically, and signs to leave it are shown to the side with names of the places and appropriate direction signs.  Not here, once you are on a road it's name disappears leaving you to wonder if you've made the right turn.  When you see a name blazoned across the highway it doesn't mean that's the road you're on, it's the one intersecting it ... I think!  Hence my confusion.  Being driver and navigator both can be rather hair-raising.

It was a lovely drive up to Chena Hot Springs.  All along the road are low-growing green, fern-like ground-cover with red/yellow/orange stalks rising from it; further back are bare deciduous trees providing a grey smokey backdrop from which the tall black plumes of evergreens seems to be billowing out the top.  All these brackish colours are reflected wherever ice has turned to water giving way to numerous streams & ponds.

I arrived unexpectedly early in Chena having badly mistimed the journey, so sat outside with a coffee, happily writing cards until booking-in time.  A moose and last year's calf wandered through the resort while I sat there so got some good pictures (I hope).  

Everything went downhill after that.  Lunch was billed as fried clams with smoked cheese & salad; I ordered it without cheese but the clams were done in batter.  It said fried clams, it didn't say clams in breadcrumbs, or battered clams!  $9-50 is a lot to pay for some green leaves and a dressing - no adjustment being made for the lack of cheese!

All notices say don't go in the outdoor pool if you have open sores-water is untreated and although tested for bacteria they can't be sure it's not contaminated...as I have rubbed up some friction sores from my backpack and sores on my feet on my travels this meant me.  The other pools are chlorinated, just being near them made me sneeze...so they were out too.  Also told not to go walking alone as too risky, always go with at least one other person and even then to check out and back in again afterwards...but they don't do guided walks.  Too early/late in season for horse-riding/dogs.  I booked myself in for a massage the following day...having been warned that she didn't always turn up!

For dinner the elaborate (exciting for most people) menu was built around wheat and cheese and they are totally unable to improvise, vary or otherwise stray from what is stated on the menu.  Had steak and very small amount of courgettes as the least elaborate, no potatoes as au gratin and pre-prepared so nothing else.  Afterwards I asked for a Nutty Alaskan (coffee with kahlua & frangelico), it sounded delicious, but said I didn't want it until I'd finished my glass of wine.  He brought it anyway saying if he didn't the cream would dissolve into the coffee - then why make it yet?!?  Grrrr!!

Both waiters made it plain I was a problem and I was horribly embarrassed.  I was stuck there for another 36 hours and couldn’t think of a way out of it.  Felt really miserable, depressed and lonely - went to bed and cried a lot.

Mon 5th May 2003, Fairbanks

I moved the car to the parking garage first thing and checked, I can leave it overnight.  Will cost about us$10 but worth it – better safe than sorry.  Found a wonderful place for breakfast, straight out of the 1950's (not that I remember the fifties since I only arrived at the tail end but I can use my imagination), the Co-Op Plaza Diner.  As I'd walked away from the hotel I'd wandered though a wonderful haze of frying bacon – mmmmm -  so I just followed my nose to the Early Bird entrance (for those who want breakfast before the plaza opens proper).  Think 'Happy Days' and you have it, minus the Fonz.  I sat on a stool at the bar and had eggs (over easy this time), bacon and hash browns, small orange juice (huge) and coffee with free refills all for a nominal sum.  Lilac vinyl seating and Wurlitzer in the corner (not working but looks good), and period music.  The place was unashamedly nostalgic and I enjoyed every bit of it.

People start speaking to me as soon as my accent gives me away as a foreigner – ‘I just love your accent’ is a frequent comment.  Although for some reason a few people have thought I'm Australian.  Not the first time a member of my family has been taken for Australian but I can’t see why.  Not that I mind, the Aussies are good people and I’m quite happy to be taken for one of them.  Got the chance at today’s local paper and it mentioned Saturday’s winds and dust…’dust and sand almost resembled a desert sandstorm with gusts up to 30mph.  Due to high pressure in the northwest of the state causing rotating winds’.  So it was bad enough to report on!

As everywhere is closed until 10 o'clock I took my time over breakfast before going for a little walk then back to my room and waiting impatiently until 11 o’clock when I could phone Mary Shields.  Free local calls by the way, which helped.  She was engaged for half an hour then the ansaphone was on but she returned my call quickly.  Having spoken to Mary I planned my route over to her, right through the middle of Fairbanks (joy) and out to the wilderness the other side.  I was to get there about half three (or thereabouts depending on whether I got lost).  I’d already pulled a map from the internet so with other directions from her I pieced together a route.  Terrifying thought considering my view of the traffic here.

I thought to look at some museums before heading off but everything was closed including the equivalent of the Tourist Information Office, which was only open Tuesdays and Saturdays.  No good to me!  So I wound up back in my room taking advantage of the time to bring my diary up to date.  Once that was done and I’d had another coffee at the Diner it was time to leave.

I managed ok, took all the right turnings until I found myself going up a dirt road for a couple of miles, at which point I decided I must be lost and turned back.  I nearly stopped a car going at a fair lick in the opposite direction but wasn’t quick-thinking enough.  I stopped and asked a woodcutter for directions and it turned out I was only about 1000 yards short – I hadn’t quite gone far enough.  The hotel had told me it would be signposted so I was looking got a bigish business-type sign.  As it turned out it was a normal house sign ‘Tails of the Trail’.  This was where she lived.  Turn off, down a short dirt track and park in front of the garage.  Amazingly I was on time.

Below to the left is the large dog-yard and to the right is her log cabin.  She greeted me warmly and after a few minutes we discovered hers was the car I’d passed and just missed asking directions from – she’d wondered who’d been driving so slowly!

Together we fetched some knucklebones for the dogs and took them down to the yard.  She asked if I would be ok to go into the yard, I could get mucked up and was I nervous of dogs ?  I wasn’t in the least bit nervous and I came prepared in old clothes.  They are beautiful, big, waggly, bouncy dogs; full of joy and intelligence, each with its own distinct and delightful personality.  She introduced me to each of them where they were chained individually on a long leash to a kennel.  They are kept this way as boisterous play can sometimes turn deadly.   Then she let them off their chains and they bounded around the large enclosure enjoying some mad catch-me-if-you-can game.  As well as letting them stretch their legs it allows them to establish a pecking order amongst themselves.  There is a dominant dog, which I couldn’t spot and had to have pointed out to me.  This is not necessarily the lead dog.  Mary, however, is the top dog in their eyes; she needs them to see her this way so she can control them on the trail.

Each came up to say hello, jumping onto the roof of the nearest kennel to have its ears rubbed or whatever.  They are all related to each other in some way and are not purebreds but are large, friendly, wonderful animals.  Once Mary had chained them up again, not necessarily in the same places as she said each had to learn to socialise with the others, we fed them, gave each its knucklebone and she topped up their water.  

The dogs obviously adore her and she them.

After rinsing bone residue off our hands in a trough she took me into her home, a beautifully appointed log cabin.  The stove and bathroom are the central hub with the kitchen, bed, living and dining areas around the outside.  Large windows give plenty of light and open onto a porch at the back overlooking a forested valley.  We washed up properly and Mary made tea from an astonishing variety in her cupboards that we took out onto the porch.  We sat outside admiring the view, drinking tea and munching trail mix while she told me about the dogs, sledding, the Iditerod and sundry other chitchat.

Mary has a knack of making you feel right at home.  As I sit and listen to this lovely lady talking about the pleasures and problems of running dogs in these peaceful surroundings I relax completely.  She is so natural and welcoming and I know from others who have seen her, whether in small or large groups, she is always as friendly as she is with me.  Occasionally we digress and talk about other things but we always come back to her dogs.  She loves them and she loves the life, and it’s easy to see why.

On the slope we are level with the treetops that are close to the cabin and see the birds clearly; also the red squirrels who chatter angrily at us as though to say ‘go away, this is our place, and leave the nuts behind you’.  At one point her voice trails off and her gaze fixes behind me, ‘there’s a snow hare’ she says quietly.  It takes me a while but then I spot the white legs and once I place the white ear tips I can see it, so still, merging with the background.  Eventually it moves and I can appreciate how large it is.  Later I spot a fox with its russet / brown coat and extremely large, white-tipped tail running across the far end of the clearing.

Alaskans have told me it's a shame I've come here between seasons, missing the beauty of the winter snows and the green glory of summer.  Looking out from Mary's cabin at the misty hills and hazy green just clouding the trees as the buds begin to show; enjoying the birdsong and watching the animals we spot among the trees I have to disagree.  This is a wonderful time to be in this wonderful country.

No visit to Fairbanks would be complete without a visit to Mary.  I was very lucky she agreed to take me as it is really out of season for her and she doesn't normally see people at this time.  I came away with a signed book she gave me that she wrote about her sledding experiences and the Iditerod.  It is now compulsive bedtime reading.

I got back to the hotel and felt very flat and low.  I’d been excited all afternoon and now was anticlimax.  I went for yet another Mexican meal and went to bed.

Sun 4th May 2003, Fairbanks

I had trouble with the under sheets during the night.  Every time I turned over they pinged off the top corners.  Re-made the bed a couple of times but gave up eventually - the sheets were just too small to cover properly.  I just hoped they didn't strangle me as I slept.  I was also woken at 3 o’clock by shouting and again later by the cold.

 

It was still cold when I woke up – took a lot of effort to get out of bed, first time so far.  Usually I’m up-‘n-at-‘em early these days, rather different from back home!  I’ve tried several times to reach Mary Shields and ended leaving a message on her voicemail.  She was the first lady to complete the Iditerod dog-sled race and I’m hoping to be able to meet her.  She doesn’t really start tours until a little later in the year but when I emailed from the UK before leaving she said to contact her when I got to Fairbanks to see if she’s free.  Fingers crossed.  By the time I left my room a very friendly lady had appeared on the desk and everything popped back into proportion.  

 

Being a Sunday the only place open for breakfast was a Mexican bar so had brunch there before going to a supermarket for a few bits and pieces.  

 

Then off to the Internet place, Atomic Video!, for the next batch of emails.  I felt a bit out of place there amongst all the pimply youths, with their inane chatter and bravado playing computer games.  The computers are in a circle so I can see them sneaking looks at me.  They looked at me a bit funny to begin with but seem to have accepted me now I’ve been a couple of times as a bit of an oddity but harmless really.

 

The lad in the foyer turned out to be friendly and helpful too; I seem to be spending a lot of time here revising initial impressions.  He directed me to the building next door to do my laundry, I've got a feeling it was purely residential and I shouldn't have been there, but done now.  Went to the same Mexican restaurant for dinner and was recognised by the waitress, which was nice.  She came up from South America on a scholarship and got married here.  Didn't work out and divorced about 5 years ago but had made a life for herself here by that time.  She teaches in the schools and is studying for her doctorate, plus waitressing over the weekends.  She says she has a good life and loves it here.

 

When I got back to the hotel I found Mary Shields had left a message at the front desk to ring her tomorrow after 11 o’clock.  Looking hopeful.

 

My car's parked on the street now (been in the next door bank's spaces over the weekend but had to move it ready for the workers tomorrow).  It’s got to be moved again by 9 o’clock tomorrow morning so I’ll be taking it to a parking garage down the road.    Time for bed and try not to think about the newspaper article I read today saying a man had been arrested in the early hours of yesterday morning in the foyer of this hotel and charged with 4th degree assault.  Sweet dreams!

Sat 3rd May 2003, Tok to Fairbanks

After a good night’s sleep I got a good start on the day back at Fast Eddy's where I learned that I like my eggs ‘medium easy’ and that hash browns are not small triangular portions of squashed processed potatoes that give me heartburn in England.  They are grated potato, fried and heaped on your plate in a great mound.  (‘Pan fries’ are fried sliced potatoes; I’m waiting to find out what ‘grits’ are).  Bit confusing though that hash browns were fried sliced potatoes in Haines Junction but maybe she misunderstood my accent when I ordered.  I had them with the crispy streaky bacon they do so well over here and had such a wonderful breakfast overall as marked Fast Eddy’s as a ‘must’ for the way back.

 

I left early, leaving Tok on the flats behind me as I headed up into the mountains.  I’d only seen one car after about three quarters of an hour and decided to stop for one of my ‘stand and stare’ stops.  Absolute quiet apart from birdsong and the wind.  The air was crisp and clear and the only movement was the gentle swaying of the trees in the wind.  The roads were better today and the speed limit is actually up to 65mph (been mostly 55mph out of town so far).  

 

I conveniently arrived at Delta Junction around lunchtime where I made my second driving mistake.  I’m still not sure whether I shouldn’t have been going that way at all or whether I was just on the wrong side of the road.  The people coming the other way thought it was highly amusing and as we were only doing about 5 mph there was no harm done.  Threw me though; with embarrassment as much as anything so I’ll put that down to going to the wrong type place for lunch.  I went to an Italian it was a bit posh for what I wanted but by the time I realised it was a proper restaurant I was sat down and being the only one there couldn’t very well sidle quietly out.  Had a good Greek salad though, and a nice talk with the lady who served me.  She first came there from the Ukraine in 1960 and she said the roads were very different then, all dirt track, and the winters much harder.  This winter particularly was so mild ‘she thought she was in Hawaii!'

 

That afternoon I passed a lake with more people than I’d seen in one place all day.  I stopped out of nosiness and found people ice fishing, both singles and families.  Looked like it was a lot of fun and while I hoped they had something warm to sit on I rather think it might have been the plugs of ice removed from the lake to fish through.

 

And so to Fairbanks, passing through North Pole, Alaska, which as George says, is very definitely not worth a visit.

 

Fairbanks came as a shock.  I hate the traffic, finding it a little intimidating and everything looks rather shabby and seedy.  I checked my Rough Guide to Alaska and it seems to agree with me.  The hotel certainly meets their description; apparently none of the hotels are up to much but apparently I'm in one of the best.

 

Rigsby would have been right at home in the hotel; smells of damp and cleaning fluid and the TV is permanently on in the foyer entertaining the teenage 'concierge' and his mate.  Old fashioned furniture, open pipe work and plumbing that gives off an astonishing range of noises.  No curtains, just horizontal blinds to keep out the long daylight hours which could be a problem when it comes to going to sleep.  Then you notice the well-upholstered armchair, comfy bed, crisp linen and clean, if a little shabby bathroom.

 

Got some unexpected exercise tonight - took a hike to the nearest email facility.  It was rather further than I expected, as everything seems to be over here.  On the way back I stopped at some lights, looked up the road...and saw a great 20-foot wall of roiling dust heading towards me!  No escape, we just had to endure it.  Current winds are extremely strong and we are constantly being assaulted by small dust storms but this was exceptional.

 

Went to a Mexican restaurant this evening and got chatting in Spanish to the South American waitress.  Well...I tried my Spanish, and we both had a laugh.

 

I’m a bit out of charity with Fairbanks just now what with the dust and the traffic but I’m learning that first impressions can be very wrong, especially at the end of a long day when I’m so tired.  All could change tomorrow.

Fri 2nd May 2003, Burwash Landing to Tok

The bed was really comfy and felt good in the crisp clean sheets.  I slept like a babe but woke up with the slight cough that I went to bed with last night – due to the dust I suspect.  Breakfast was in a friendly atmosphere although I kept to my own table this time.  Everyone seemed to sit at their own tables and talk at a distance.  Odd, but they included me in the conversations that bounced around the room so that was fine by me.  I guess that was why Horace looked a little startled when I asked to join him - I guess it’s just not done that way here.
 
By this time I noticed that a lot of the furnishings still had plastic on them from new and the back room was being opened and prepared having been shut up for the winter.  Horace looks after the place in the winter when the owners go south and it had only just been re-opened.  I had arrived before everything had been got up together.  I collared Horace to go over a few unfamiliar controls in the car after breakfast and he cleared up a few puzzles for me like I couldn’t find how to put the handbrake on!  The car seemed firm enough after I stopped but that is apparently due to the automatic transmission.  The ‘handbrake’ is actually applied by foot and released by hand.  Who thought that one up?
 
Another place I shall call into on the way back if I can.

Before leaving they all insisted I visit the museum.  It was officially closed but the guy who was getting it ready for the summer had finished breakfast the same time as me and was on his way to start work for the day.  He let me in and I spent a very enjoyable half hour going round.  Wildlife and First Nation stuff and just the right level of information for me (too much and I start to glaze over).

Did you know? (historically) …

There are two clans in the area, the Crow and the Wolf.  Lineage is through the female line and they can’t marry inside the clan.  Crow must marry Wolf and Wolf must marry Crow.  When a girl reaches puberty she is taken to a Puberty Hut where she stays for anything from 1 to 12 months beading, making clothes and sundry other life skills.  She must wear headgear that comes way forward of her face and must not look at or be seen by a male in all that time.  Nor must she allow water to touch her teeth and must drink through a hollow tube, usually a swan’s bone.  Husbands are chosen for their skills and can be required to live with the girls’ clan/family for a year of so before their marriage, presumably to prove their skills and ensure they complement the skills of others in the family.  Each clan’s survival depended on the skills of its members and a full mix was required.

Thank goodness I’m a 21^st Century Englishwoman.

Actually – perhaps they had the right of it.  Perhaps we could apply that these days eg in immigration and even with people already In the UK.  In order for society to survive everyone has to contribute and if they don’t they can’t be part of society with its privileges otherwise society would fall apart and there wouldn’t be a society to grant privileges!  A little tortuous but I know what I mean, and a little harsh maybe but food for thought!  After all, the only ‘rights’ anyone has in this life are those that society is willing, and more importantly – is able, to let them have.

I enjoyed being the only person in the Museum, I could look at everything in peace and take it in properly.  I was more than happy to pay or at lest make a contribution but I wasn’t allowed – good advertising he said.  Certainly gets my vote.

It wasn’t long before I was on my way and enjoying the serenity and freedom of the road.  The vast beauty of the country is starting to work its way into my soul and I haven’t felt so much at peace with myself in a long, long time.

Stopped at Buckshot Betty’s in Beaver Creek for lunch.  Quiet bunch of customers but when they left I had a few laughs with Betty.  My salad was good but you should have seen what the others were eating, looked great, and so much of it.  One person had a truly enormous burger and masses of curly fries.  Sadly the coffee was lousy but you can’t have everything!

On the way up to the border I came across a herd of wild horses, which was a huge thrill for someone who was horse-mad as a kid.  I stopped and watched them for a while.

Then it was time for the border crossing into Alaska.  I managed to go wrong right away.  There was no-one else there when I arrived and frankly it wasn’t clear where to go – honest!  I pulled over to the right and after a few moments a guard came out of the building with an amused but rather exasperated expression on his face.  He rather pointedly asked if I was delivering goods? – I was in the wrong lane – ho ho!  He was very nice really once you got beyond the official gruffness.  He directed me to park and come in the building to complete some paperwork.  It was pretty painless although when it came to the point of paying the us$6 entry fee he asked if I wasn’t going to complain like my other countrymen?  As it happened I’d been warned by George but even so it wouldn’t have occurred to me to complain; it’s their country and they can do what they like.  I was a bit embarrassed to think my countrymen had been so rude.

After that it was a long gradual climb up into the mountains. At one point I stopped and stood.  I hadn’t seen anyone for an hour, the air was cold and crisp, the only sounds were the wind and occasional birdsong; the only movement was the swaying in the trees.  Glorious, so I got out and just stood a while.  I kept stopping at various places, although not necessarily ones I wanted to stop at.  As I said, you’re not allowed to stop just anywhere.  I’m not sure why, I must ask.  The US has a very different idea of ‘scenic points’ than I have.  I really feel that to have a good chance at a photo you need a clear view and those trees planted, presumably as a windbreak, are more hindrance than help!

Then came Tok.  Apart from being at a crossroads I can’t see any reason why anyone would go there for its own sake.  Its sole purpose seems to be for the convenience of people passing from one place to another.  It’s unattractive, on a boring flat plain and I couldn’t find anything of interest.  Of course, I could have been looking in the wrong places and it could be keeping its light very well hidden under a bushel.  Maybe it has hidden talents?  I did look but none sprang up and introduced themselves.  

Young’s Motel is just what I expected and was hoping I would find while I was here.  One of those places you see in American films and television programmes where people like Mulder and Scully stay to complete an assignment; or the couple on the run from The Terminator would stay in, but cleaner.  The rooms are in a block set apart from the restaurant so there’s just a short walk after you’ve eaten.  Good, basic and clean; the people polite but distant.  Wonderful and rather thrilling really!  Bet Mulder and Scully never got such good food as in Fast Eddy’s though.  I’m a little wary of portions now so I carefully ordered the small rib-eye steak (the special, and came as small, medium or large).  I received a massive steak twice the size of one I would eat at home.  Don’t get the impression I’m complaining – I’m not.  But I couldn’t finish it!

Not quite so tired tonight so watched a little telly before turning in.

Thurs, 1st May 2003, Whitehorse to Burwash Landing

 

This morning I found the new laces, packed them safely and threaded the old ones back on so they wouldn't have a chance to go walkabout again.  I packed everything last night so I just needed to cash some travellers cheques and go to the chemist; the chemist eluded me so will have to wait for Fairbanks.  Turns out my face wasn’t red from the sun – I’d broken out in eczema!  On my face!!  Ok, so I’ve had it on my hands before but never on my face – disaster!  I’ve got a tube of Nelson’s homeopathic evening primrose cream with me but it won’t last long at this rate.

 

I phoned the National Cars people who arrived promptly and drove me to the edge of town to pick up the 4 x 4.  I’m a bit confused as to what offices they have where now but no matter.  They were very friendly and helpful.  The only minor slip being my Access card authority.  Apparently it causes delays if you don't notify them you are leaving the country.  Went through ok finally and I was given a telephone nunber to ring ready for any other transactions to let them know where I am and for how long.

 

The place was right next to the Alaska Highway so it should have been easy to get on – in theory - but of course I messed it up and went the wrong way down a slip road.  Luckily I realised very quickly and managed to back up just before a car came at me.  I didn’t even look back at the car hire place, I just knew there’d be someone watching and thinking ‘women drivers!’.

 

I love my green car.  It’s way bigger than I’m used to and I feel queen of the road from my high vantage point. It’s a joy to drive even though it’s taking a bit of getting used to, left-hand drive plus no gearstick.  At one point I guiltily came down from 90  and thought it was because the car was so large and smooth that I hadn’t realised how fast I was going.  After about an hour or so I remembered it was kilometres not miles.  Things get a little confusing regarding speed and distance.  The car is set up for kilometres, road signs/book/map distances are all in kilometres but everyone talks of miles.  Not got to the bottom of why yet.

 

Once I got under way and developed a feel for the car I relaxed and a silly grin took over my face, then I started laughing.  This was it, I was really on my way now, travelling the Alaska Highway – a dream come true!  The views were big, wide and empty, glorious scenery of distant mountains and I had the freedom and privilege of travelling it.

 

Stopped at a viewpoint about 45 minutes later with two other people there.  The "facilities" were two huts but well painted and preserved.  Beneath the seat was a massive drop into the ground masquerading as drainage.  Next time I'll remove my waist money belt first, wouldn't want it to come off by mistake and have to get a fishing line to get it out!

 

I’d reached Haines Junction by lunchtime and picked a place called Glacier View Inn to eat in.  Very unprepossessing place from the outside if not downright off-putting, handwritten signs for motel, petrol and restaurant with four tiny-looking cabins.  Inside it was cosy, clean and full of atmosphere, run by a lady with a wide smile and (presumably) her teenage son.  A couple of old boys talking in an incomprehensible accent in the corner who must have been local as the lad went and sat with them after he served me my omelette and hash browns (fried potato slices) and coffee that just kept coming.  There were smarter looking places but I shall definitely call on the way back if I'm there at an appropriate time.

 

A little further up the road I saw a car coming in the opposite direction with the windscreen smashed so badly I was surprised he could see anything through it.  It was a right mess.  Half an hour later all became clear as I came across road works.  The road was right up with a few workers then just gravel and dust for miles.  When the workmen saw me coming they got in their cars but as they waved and smiled cheerfully as I passed I decided not to take it as a reflection on my driving.

 

I was down to 20mph as any faster I would skid - thank god for the four wheel drive - for the gravel rather than ice!.  A real problem is people passing either way and the stones thrown up from them.  They just don’t care, with even the most massive of rigs going hell-for-leather.  I just let everyone overtake me, I’m in no hurry and I don’t want a bill for chipped paint or damaged suspension; I also don’t want to shake myself loose from my bones.  Another real problem is the plumes of dust thrown up after you, sometimes making it impossible to see.  I developed a cough and wow - the state of my clothes at the end of the day!

 

The rest of the road can be rough even where it’s not been taken up but there are helpful red flags at the appropriate side of the road marking damaged areas.  It pays to heed them, as they could be anything from slightly sunken road to blooming great craters.

 

Destruction Bay was appropriately named as a relatively long stretch of road works ran through it.  The people were ok if not especially friendly but I took the opportunity to refuel (good practice to always do this out here), especially as nearly everywhere is still closed up from the winter.  Fine by me - means those pesky tourists aren't around to get in my way!

 

Missed lots of photo opportunities like the beginning of Kluane Lake (the south end) which was the most beautiful but I still managed to get some good shots.  We are only allowed to stop at designated ‘pull-ins’ – recognising the slightly larger gravel areas at the side of the road as such can be difficult.

 

Arrived Burwash Landing Resort on the northern end of Kluane Lake in good time.  You can’t miss the place, it’s got a giant gold-pan out the front.  At first sight it seemed a little disappointing.  "Resort" seems a little grand and one look at the flaking woodwork; ill-fitting fly screens and basic amenities would be enough to send me on my way if I hadn't been pre-booked.  Luckily I was, and I loved the place.  New towels (four sets for some reason), comfy beds (two doubles again), fresh linen, and spotlessly clean (flaking paintwork not-withstanding).

 

Also, the people are lovely.  The waitress, Marilyn, was very friendly and chatty; and I spent a lot of time nattering with Horace who started a conversation at dinner.  It seemed odd to talk across the room so I asked if I could join him at his table - he looked a little startled but happy enough.  He’s in his 70’s and retired up here from a lifetime in removals, travelling all over Canada and America after he developed cancer of the oesophagus.  He’s one of twenty kids and has umpteen grandchildren and great-grandchildren himself  He spent a lot of time preparing, squaring logs etc, for a cabin he is building, only for a big fire to burn the lot a few years ago.  He’s just preparing another lot and is due to start building soon.  Dean booked me in and does the cooking – seems to come in for a lot of ribbing from the others for being miserable.  Normally they have trout from the lake on the menu but not while it’s frozen over so I made do with the lamb chops.

 

A German and two South Africans had been here yesterday but I was the only one for tonight apart from the roadway maintenance workers and felt right at home.  I had a brief roam around but didn’t stray far as they warned me to be ‘bear aware’ and not to walk on the ice even though most was still four feet deep - it was no longer safe as it was starting to break up.  That was enough to put the wind up me so I stayed close.  Especially since a dog I’d made friends with started barking at me when I headed out the main area and I wondered if he knew something I didn’t,  so I came back.  It’s the sort of thing to take the relaxation out of a walk!

 

I was totally exhausted by this time – probably the altitude, driving or something so I was in bed and asleep by 8 o’clock.

Wed, 30 April 2003 Whitehorse, day 2

Yesterday ended with me writing my diary and doing some exercises – what has come over me?  I’m a new woman already!

 

Today’s plan was to go for a walk along one of the trails.  After breakfast I did my washing in the hotel laundry and activated my phone card – the one I got as part of my travel package.  Then went to put my walking boots on - being careful of the blister I’d worked up yesterday! - but I’d only one shoe lace.  I’d removed them to clean the boots before leaving and only put one back on.  The other must be in the garage at home.  (Am I really safe to be out here on my own do you suppose?)  So off to the shops where I struggled to find the right laces but eventually got some – green, for brown boots, but no others on offer – will be ok once I’ve been out in the muck and dust!  Also came back with a new pair of lightweight walking shoes in the sale for a decent discount.  Nice one!  Not much difference on the price from the UK but good quality and so-oo comfortable.

 

I went to Cheechakos Sourdough Steakhouse for lunch.  Cheechako is a newcomer to the Klondike and a Sourdough is an old-timer/experienced Klondiker.  The owner's a lovely lady, they run out a daily newsletter to customers giving weather reports and general chatty items.  Loved it.

 

After lunch I trotted off to look at more of Whitehorse centre – and had to trot back again ‘cos I left my new shoes under the table!

 

I visited the Yukon Gallery to view the work of Yukon artists.  Some great but over my price range, others...well...weird.

 

On the way a lady started talking to me while we were waiting for the lights to change.  She walks 5 miles a day to keep her bad ankle from seizing up; she broke it, got an infection that ate the bone, then arthritis.  Cheerful about it though.  People are just so friendly and open.

 

I went back to my room to change to boots for my walk and that's when a wall of tiredness hit me.  I slept for a couple of hours and then took a short walk along the Yukon River in my brand spanking new walking shoes.  I found some snow on the near bank so I wandered down and shoved my fingers in it just to say I had!  As it was my last night in Whitehorse I treated myself to a meal in the Edgwater Hotel; rack of ribs with garlic & honey, garlic potatoes & broccoli.  Any SARS germs will have a hard job getting foothold in me with all the garlic, Tea Tree Oil, Vit C & herbal tea drinks I've been having.

 

Ought to make a note of the food as I know mum will want to know about it.  Well it's good and everyone is so helpful about my no wheat/dairy diet; nothing is too much trouble.  Varied salads mostly so far.  Mexican and Chinese are the most prevalent.  Sam ‘n Andy’s is Mexican and I’ve been tucking into good crispy salads with tasty dressings and corn tortillas chicken and spicy sauces and Cheechakos does a great breakfast.  You'd be in your element here Mum.

 

Back at the hotel I packed ready for an early start next day and found the missing shoelace (tucked into the toe of the boot); just as well since by that time I'd lost the new ones!  I think maybe I’ve had a backlash of jetlag today, because as well as the shoelace debacle, crashing out this afternoon and leaving my bag at Cheechakos I did something strange to my telly and had to get it fixed (there is an all day weather channel that is useful to watch), and I couldn't get the washing machine to work so had to get help for that too.  I’m really glad I didn’t pick up the 4 x 4 the day I landed, or even the next day!

 

I’m heading for an early night because tomorrow I pick up the 4 x 4 and start up the Alaskan Highway.  First stop Burwash Landing 177 miles from Whitehorse.  I couldn't find it on the map before I left the UK but now know it's on the far end of Kluane Lake near Destruction Bay.  Another customer in the shoe shop was off to Beaver Creek today and said it would take her five and a half hours – I got confused and thought that was where I was going and would need a very early start.  So it’s a relief to know I won’t be going so far tomorrow, not yet anyway, I will on the way back as Beaver Creek is my last stop before returning to Whitehorse.

 

Fingers crossed for negotiating the Whitehorse roads on the way out tomorrow.