Sat 3rd May 2003, Tok to Fairbanks

After a good night’s sleep I got a good start on the day back at Fast Eddy's where I learned that I like my eggs ‘medium easy’ and that hash browns are not small triangular portions of squashed processed potatoes that give me heartburn in England.  They are grated potato, fried and heaped on your plate in a great mound.  (‘Pan fries’ are fried sliced potatoes; I’m waiting to find out what ‘grits’ are).  Bit confusing though that hash browns were fried sliced potatoes in Haines Junction but maybe she misunderstood my accent when I ordered.  I had them with the crispy streaky bacon they do so well over here and had such a wonderful breakfast overall as marked Fast Eddy’s as a ‘must’ for the way back.

 

I left early, leaving Tok on the flats behind me as I headed up into the mountains.  I’d only seen one car after about three quarters of an hour and decided to stop for one of my ‘stand and stare’ stops.  Absolute quiet apart from birdsong and the wind.  The air was crisp and clear and the only movement was the gentle swaying of the trees in the wind.  The roads were better today and the speed limit is actually up to 65mph (been mostly 55mph out of town so far).  

 

I conveniently arrived at Delta Junction around lunchtime where I made my second driving mistake.  I’m still not sure whether I shouldn’t have been going that way at all or whether I was just on the wrong side of the road.  The people coming the other way thought it was highly amusing and as we were only doing about 5 mph there was no harm done.  Threw me though; with embarrassment as much as anything so I’ll put that down to going to the wrong type place for lunch.  I went to an Italian it was a bit posh for what I wanted but by the time I realised it was a proper restaurant I was sat down and being the only one there couldn’t very well sidle quietly out.  Had a good Greek salad though, and a nice talk with the lady who served me.  She first came there from the Ukraine in 1960 and she said the roads were very different then, all dirt track, and the winters much harder.  This winter particularly was so mild ‘she thought she was in Hawaii!'

 

That afternoon I passed a lake with more people than I’d seen in one place all day.  I stopped out of nosiness and found people ice fishing, both singles and families.  Looked like it was a lot of fun and while I hoped they had something warm to sit on I rather think it might have been the plugs of ice removed from the lake to fish through.

 

And so to Fairbanks, passing through North Pole, Alaska, which as George says, is very definitely not worth a visit.

 

Fairbanks came as a shock.  I hate the traffic, finding it a little intimidating and everything looks rather shabby and seedy.  I checked my Rough Guide to Alaska and it seems to agree with me.  The hotel certainly meets their description; apparently none of the hotels are up to much but apparently I'm in one of the best.

 

Rigsby would have been right at home in the hotel; smells of damp and cleaning fluid and the TV is permanently on in the foyer entertaining the teenage 'concierge' and his mate.  Old fashioned furniture, open pipe work and plumbing that gives off an astonishing range of noises.  No curtains, just horizontal blinds to keep out the long daylight hours which could be a problem when it comes to going to sleep.  Then you notice the well-upholstered armchair, comfy bed, crisp linen and clean, if a little shabby bathroom.

 

Got some unexpected exercise tonight - took a hike to the nearest email facility.  It was rather further than I expected, as everything seems to be over here.  On the way back I stopped at some lights, looked up the road...and saw a great 20-foot wall of roiling dust heading towards me!  No escape, we just had to endure it.  Current winds are extremely strong and we are constantly being assaulted by small dust storms but this was exceptional.

 

Went to a Mexican restaurant this evening and got chatting in Spanish to the South American waitress.  Well...I tried my Spanish, and we both had a laugh.

 

I’m a bit out of charity with Fairbanks just now what with the dust and the traffic but I’m learning that first impressions can be very wrong, especially at the end of a long day when I’m so tired.  All could change tomorrow.

Fri 2nd May 2003, Burwash Landing to Tok

The bed was really comfy and felt good in the crisp clean sheets.  I slept like a babe but woke up with the slight cough that I went to bed with last night – due to the dust I suspect.  Breakfast was in a friendly atmosphere although I kept to my own table this time.  Everyone seemed to sit at their own tables and talk at a distance.  Odd, but they included me in the conversations that bounced around the room so that was fine by me.  I guess that was why Horace looked a little startled when I asked to join him - I guess it’s just not done that way here.
 
By this time I noticed that a lot of the furnishings still had plastic on them from new and the back room was being opened and prepared having been shut up for the winter.  Horace looks after the place in the winter when the owners go south and it had only just been re-opened.  I had arrived before everything had been got up together.  I collared Horace to go over a few unfamiliar controls in the car after breakfast and he cleared up a few puzzles for me like I couldn’t find how to put the handbrake on!  The car seemed firm enough after I stopped but that is apparently due to the automatic transmission.  The ‘handbrake’ is actually applied by foot and released by hand.  Who thought that one up?
 
Another place I shall call into on the way back if I can.

Before leaving they all insisted I visit the museum.  It was officially closed but the guy who was getting it ready for the summer had finished breakfast the same time as me and was on his way to start work for the day.  He let me in and I spent a very enjoyable half hour going round.  Wildlife and First Nation stuff and just the right level of information for me (too much and I start to glaze over).

Did you know? (historically) …

There are two clans in the area, the Crow and the Wolf.  Lineage is through the female line and they can’t marry inside the clan.  Crow must marry Wolf and Wolf must marry Crow.  When a girl reaches puberty she is taken to a Puberty Hut where she stays for anything from 1 to 12 months beading, making clothes and sundry other life skills.  She must wear headgear that comes way forward of her face and must not look at or be seen by a male in all that time.  Nor must she allow water to touch her teeth and must drink through a hollow tube, usually a swan’s bone.  Husbands are chosen for their skills and can be required to live with the girls’ clan/family for a year of so before their marriage, presumably to prove their skills and ensure they complement the skills of others in the family.  Each clan’s survival depended on the skills of its members and a full mix was required.

Thank goodness I’m a 21^st Century Englishwoman.

Actually – perhaps they had the right of it.  Perhaps we could apply that these days eg in immigration and even with people already In the UK.  In order for society to survive everyone has to contribute and if they don’t they can’t be part of society with its privileges otherwise society would fall apart and there wouldn’t be a society to grant privileges!  A little tortuous but I know what I mean, and a little harsh maybe but food for thought!  After all, the only ‘rights’ anyone has in this life are those that society is willing, and more importantly – is able, to let them have.

I enjoyed being the only person in the Museum, I could look at everything in peace and take it in properly.  I was more than happy to pay or at lest make a contribution but I wasn’t allowed – good advertising he said.  Certainly gets my vote.

It wasn’t long before I was on my way and enjoying the serenity and freedom of the road.  The vast beauty of the country is starting to work its way into my soul and I haven’t felt so much at peace with myself in a long, long time.

Stopped at Buckshot Betty’s in Beaver Creek for lunch.  Quiet bunch of customers but when they left I had a few laughs with Betty.  My salad was good but you should have seen what the others were eating, looked great, and so much of it.  One person had a truly enormous burger and masses of curly fries.  Sadly the coffee was lousy but you can’t have everything!

On the way up to the border I came across a herd of wild horses, which was a huge thrill for someone who was horse-mad as a kid.  I stopped and watched them for a while.

Then it was time for the border crossing into Alaska.  I managed to go wrong right away.  There was no-one else there when I arrived and frankly it wasn’t clear where to go – honest!  I pulled over to the right and after a few moments a guard came out of the building with an amused but rather exasperated expression on his face.  He rather pointedly asked if I was delivering goods? – I was in the wrong lane – ho ho!  He was very nice really once you got beyond the official gruffness.  He directed me to park and come in the building to complete some paperwork.  It was pretty painless although when it came to the point of paying the us$6 entry fee he asked if I wasn’t going to complain like my other countrymen?  As it happened I’d been warned by George but even so it wouldn’t have occurred to me to complain; it’s their country and they can do what they like.  I was a bit embarrassed to think my countrymen had been so rude.

After that it was a long gradual climb up into the mountains. At one point I stopped and stood.  I hadn’t seen anyone for an hour, the air was cold and crisp, the only sounds were the wind and occasional birdsong; the only movement was the swaying in the trees.  Glorious, so I got out and just stood a while.  I kept stopping at various places, although not necessarily ones I wanted to stop at.  As I said, you’re not allowed to stop just anywhere.  I’m not sure why, I must ask.  The US has a very different idea of ‘scenic points’ than I have.  I really feel that to have a good chance at a photo you need a clear view and those trees planted, presumably as a windbreak, are more hindrance than help!

Then came Tok.  Apart from being at a crossroads I can’t see any reason why anyone would go there for its own sake.  Its sole purpose seems to be for the convenience of people passing from one place to another.  It’s unattractive, on a boring flat plain and I couldn’t find anything of interest.  Of course, I could have been looking in the wrong places and it could be keeping its light very well hidden under a bushel.  Maybe it has hidden talents?  I did look but none sprang up and introduced themselves.  

Young’s Motel is just what I expected and was hoping I would find while I was here.  One of those places you see in American films and television programmes where people like Mulder and Scully stay to complete an assignment; or the couple on the run from The Terminator would stay in, but cleaner.  The rooms are in a block set apart from the restaurant so there’s just a short walk after you’ve eaten.  Good, basic and clean; the people polite but distant.  Wonderful and rather thrilling really!  Bet Mulder and Scully never got such good food as in Fast Eddy’s though.  I’m a little wary of portions now so I carefully ordered the small rib-eye steak (the special, and came as small, medium or large).  I received a massive steak twice the size of one I would eat at home.  Don’t get the impression I’m complaining – I’m not.  But I couldn’t finish it!

Not quite so tired tonight so watched a little telly before turning in.

Thurs, 1st May 2003, Whitehorse to Burwash Landing

 

This morning I found the new laces, packed them safely and threaded the old ones back on so they wouldn't have a chance to go walkabout again.  I packed everything last night so I just needed to cash some travellers cheques and go to the chemist; the chemist eluded me so will have to wait for Fairbanks.  Turns out my face wasn’t red from the sun – I’d broken out in eczema!  On my face!!  Ok, so I’ve had it on my hands before but never on my face – disaster!  I’ve got a tube of Nelson’s homeopathic evening primrose cream with me but it won’t last long at this rate.

 

I phoned the National Cars people who arrived promptly and drove me to the edge of town to pick up the 4 x 4.  I’m a bit confused as to what offices they have where now but no matter.  They were very friendly and helpful.  The only minor slip being my Access card authority.  Apparently it causes delays if you don't notify them you are leaving the country.  Went through ok finally and I was given a telephone nunber to ring ready for any other transactions to let them know where I am and for how long.

 

The place was right next to the Alaska Highway so it should have been easy to get on – in theory - but of course I messed it up and went the wrong way down a slip road.  Luckily I realised very quickly and managed to back up just before a car came at me.  I didn’t even look back at the car hire place, I just knew there’d be someone watching and thinking ‘women drivers!’.

 

I love my green car.  It’s way bigger than I’m used to and I feel queen of the road from my high vantage point. It’s a joy to drive even though it’s taking a bit of getting used to, left-hand drive plus no gearstick.  At one point I guiltily came down from 90  and thought it was because the car was so large and smooth that I hadn’t realised how fast I was going.  After about an hour or so I remembered it was kilometres not miles.  Things get a little confusing regarding speed and distance.  The car is set up for kilometres, road signs/book/map distances are all in kilometres but everyone talks of miles.  Not got to the bottom of why yet.

 

Once I got under way and developed a feel for the car I relaxed and a silly grin took over my face, then I started laughing.  This was it, I was really on my way now, travelling the Alaska Highway – a dream come true!  The views were big, wide and empty, glorious scenery of distant mountains and I had the freedom and privilege of travelling it.

 

Stopped at a viewpoint about 45 minutes later with two other people there.  The "facilities" were two huts but well painted and preserved.  Beneath the seat was a massive drop into the ground masquerading as drainage.  Next time I'll remove my waist money belt first, wouldn't want it to come off by mistake and have to get a fishing line to get it out!

 

I’d reached Haines Junction by lunchtime and picked a place called Glacier View Inn to eat in.  Very unprepossessing place from the outside if not downright off-putting, handwritten signs for motel, petrol and restaurant with four tiny-looking cabins.  Inside it was cosy, clean and full of atmosphere, run by a lady with a wide smile and (presumably) her teenage son.  A couple of old boys talking in an incomprehensible accent in the corner who must have been local as the lad went and sat with them after he served me my omelette and hash browns (fried potato slices) and coffee that just kept coming.  There were smarter looking places but I shall definitely call on the way back if I'm there at an appropriate time.

 

A little further up the road I saw a car coming in the opposite direction with the windscreen smashed so badly I was surprised he could see anything through it.  It was a right mess.  Half an hour later all became clear as I came across road works.  The road was right up with a few workers then just gravel and dust for miles.  When the workmen saw me coming they got in their cars but as they waved and smiled cheerfully as I passed I decided not to take it as a reflection on my driving.

 

I was down to 20mph as any faster I would skid - thank god for the four wheel drive - for the gravel rather than ice!.  A real problem is people passing either way and the stones thrown up from them.  They just don’t care, with even the most massive of rigs going hell-for-leather.  I just let everyone overtake me, I’m in no hurry and I don’t want a bill for chipped paint or damaged suspension; I also don’t want to shake myself loose from my bones.  Another real problem is the plumes of dust thrown up after you, sometimes making it impossible to see.  I developed a cough and wow - the state of my clothes at the end of the day!

 

The rest of the road can be rough even where it’s not been taken up but there are helpful red flags at the appropriate side of the road marking damaged areas.  It pays to heed them, as they could be anything from slightly sunken road to blooming great craters.

 

Destruction Bay was appropriately named as a relatively long stretch of road works ran through it.  The people were ok if not especially friendly but I took the opportunity to refuel (good practice to always do this out here), especially as nearly everywhere is still closed up from the winter.  Fine by me - means those pesky tourists aren't around to get in my way!

 

Missed lots of photo opportunities like the beginning of Kluane Lake (the south end) which was the most beautiful but I still managed to get some good shots.  We are only allowed to stop at designated ‘pull-ins’ – recognising the slightly larger gravel areas at the side of the road as such can be difficult.

 

Arrived Burwash Landing Resort on the northern end of Kluane Lake in good time.  You can’t miss the place, it’s got a giant gold-pan out the front.  At first sight it seemed a little disappointing.  "Resort" seems a little grand and one look at the flaking woodwork; ill-fitting fly screens and basic amenities would be enough to send me on my way if I hadn't been pre-booked.  Luckily I was, and I loved the place.  New towels (four sets for some reason), comfy beds (two doubles again), fresh linen, and spotlessly clean (flaking paintwork not-withstanding).

 

Also, the people are lovely.  The waitress, Marilyn, was very friendly and chatty; and I spent a lot of time nattering with Horace who started a conversation at dinner.  It seemed odd to talk across the room so I asked if I could join him at his table - he looked a little startled but happy enough.  He’s in his 70’s and retired up here from a lifetime in removals, travelling all over Canada and America after he developed cancer of the oesophagus.  He’s one of twenty kids and has umpteen grandchildren and great-grandchildren himself  He spent a lot of time preparing, squaring logs etc, for a cabin he is building, only for a big fire to burn the lot a few years ago.  He’s just preparing another lot and is due to start building soon.  Dean booked me in and does the cooking – seems to come in for a lot of ribbing from the others for being miserable.  Normally they have trout from the lake on the menu but not while it’s frozen over so I made do with the lamb chops.

 

A German and two South Africans had been here yesterday but I was the only one for tonight apart from the roadway maintenance workers and felt right at home.  I had a brief roam around but didn’t stray far as they warned me to be ‘bear aware’ and not to walk on the ice even though most was still four feet deep - it was no longer safe as it was starting to break up.  That was enough to put the wind up me so I stayed close.  Especially since a dog I’d made friends with started barking at me when I headed out the main area and I wondered if he knew something I didn’t,  so I came back.  It’s the sort of thing to take the relaxation out of a walk!

 

I was totally exhausted by this time – probably the altitude, driving or something so I was in bed and asleep by 8 o’clock.

Wed, 30 April 2003 Whitehorse, day 2

Yesterday ended with me writing my diary and doing some exercises – what has come over me?  I’m a new woman already!

 

Today’s plan was to go for a walk along one of the trails.  After breakfast I did my washing in the hotel laundry and activated my phone card – the one I got as part of my travel package.  Then went to put my walking boots on - being careful of the blister I’d worked up yesterday! - but I’d only one shoe lace.  I’d removed them to clean the boots before leaving and only put one back on.  The other must be in the garage at home.  (Am I really safe to be out here on my own do you suppose?)  So off to the shops where I struggled to find the right laces but eventually got some – green, for brown boots, but no others on offer – will be ok once I’ve been out in the muck and dust!  Also came back with a new pair of lightweight walking shoes in the sale for a decent discount.  Nice one!  Not much difference on the price from the UK but good quality and so-oo comfortable.

 

I went to Cheechakos Sourdough Steakhouse for lunch.  Cheechako is a newcomer to the Klondike and a Sourdough is an old-timer/experienced Klondiker.  The owner's a lovely lady, they run out a daily newsletter to customers giving weather reports and general chatty items.  Loved it.

 

After lunch I trotted off to look at more of Whitehorse centre – and had to trot back again ‘cos I left my new shoes under the table!

 

I visited the Yukon Gallery to view the work of Yukon artists.  Some great but over my price range, others...well...weird.

 

On the way a lady started talking to me while we were waiting for the lights to change.  She walks 5 miles a day to keep her bad ankle from seizing up; she broke it, got an infection that ate the bone, then arthritis.  Cheerful about it though.  People are just so friendly and open.

 

I went back to my room to change to boots for my walk and that's when a wall of tiredness hit me.  I slept for a couple of hours and then took a short walk along the Yukon River in my brand spanking new walking shoes.  I found some snow on the near bank so I wandered down and shoved my fingers in it just to say I had!  As it was my last night in Whitehorse I treated myself to a meal in the Edgwater Hotel; rack of ribs with garlic & honey, garlic potatoes & broccoli.  Any SARS germs will have a hard job getting foothold in me with all the garlic, Tea Tree Oil, Vit C & herbal tea drinks I've been having.

 

Ought to make a note of the food as I know mum will want to know about it.  Well it's good and everyone is so helpful about my no wheat/dairy diet; nothing is too much trouble.  Varied salads mostly so far.  Mexican and Chinese are the most prevalent.  Sam ‘n Andy’s is Mexican and I’ve been tucking into good crispy salads with tasty dressings and corn tortillas chicken and spicy sauces and Cheechakos does a great breakfast.  You'd be in your element here Mum.

 

Back at the hotel I packed ready for an early start next day and found the missing shoelace (tucked into the toe of the boot); just as well since by that time I'd lost the new ones!  I think maybe I’ve had a backlash of jetlag today, because as well as the shoelace debacle, crashing out this afternoon and leaving my bag at Cheechakos I did something strange to my telly and had to get it fixed (there is an all day weather channel that is useful to watch), and I couldn't get the washing machine to work so had to get help for that too.  I’m really glad I didn’t pick up the 4 x 4 the day I landed, or even the next day!

 

I’m heading for an early night because tomorrow I pick up the 4 x 4 and start up the Alaskan Highway.  First stop Burwash Landing 177 miles from Whitehorse.  I couldn't find it on the map before I left the UK but now know it's on the far end of Kluane Lake near Destruction Bay.  Another customer in the shoe shop was off to Beaver Creek today and said it would take her five and a half hours – I got confused and thought that was where I was going and would need a very early start.  So it’s a relief to know I won’t be going so far tomorrow, not yet anyway, I will on the way back as Beaver Creek is my last stop before returning to Whitehorse.

 

Fingers crossed for negotiating the Whitehorse roads on the way out tomorrow.

Wed 30th April 2003, Whitehorse

Well, here I am, safely settled in Whitehorse.  The flights went well, on time from Heathrow and only a half hour delay from Vancouver.  I exchanged smiles with the girl who sat next to me from Heathrow but we hardly spoke until we were coming into Vancouver.  She was from Oregon and was on her way back from visiting her sister in London.

 

Later I got chatting to a couple from Birmingham visiting family on Vancouver Island.  We were waiting in a queue for passport control in Vancouver airport and we started chatting about the Orientals a couple of queues away.  Most of them were wearing masks against the SARS virus, or perhaps they’d come from a SARS area and been asked to wear them; I never found out - they were almost a tourist attraction!  The couple had done a fair bit of travelling so we swapped stories about places we’d been, which passed the time while we queued.  Vancouver airport is impressive and airy; all glass and steel, even water features.  One was really large and you walked through it (well-not actually through the water!); complete with mock rock walls, waves lapping on the "beach" and bird song.

 

I was a little nervous standing in line because there’d been notices on the plane that you can’t take certain foods into the country and of course I’d had my food parcel in case the airline had mucked up my booking for gluten & dairy free food.  I’d finished the grub – of course, but no way of cleaning it so there were things like tomato seeds.  I’d got it into my head that I’d be in trouble but it was no problem.  I explained to the customs man and he did his best not to laugh but I definitely saw his mouth twitch at this well-meaning but obviously dippy Englishwoman!

 

I managed to find the general area for boarding the internal flight up into the Yukon but wasn’t entirely sure from the signs if I was at exactly the right gate.  Someone reassured me and we sat chatting happily for a while.  She was on her way to Edmonton for a course on how to train people to become horse-riding teachers.

 

The flight from Vancouver took us over Vancouver Island, up the Inside Passage, breaking off after Ketchikan to fly inland to Whitehorse.  We had a birds’ eye view of the islands and fabulous snowy mountains.  It was exciting to see where I shall be going in a month or so.

 

I was so excited as we came in to land I could scarcely contain myself despite being so very tired.  The airport is a small airfield with one large building on a ridge outside of Whitehorse.  I really must check the history of the town; but it looks to be built where the ground has been quarried or mined.

 

Sad to say, there was no snow nearby although I could see it on the hills/mountains surrounding the town.  Instead it was really warm and sunny – not at all what I was expecting.

 

Before I left the airport I checked with the National cars desk, who confirmed my booking for 1st May.  She also helpfully rearranged the pickup to a place in town as it would be cheaper and I could have a courtesy car from my hotel to the pick-up place.  Of course, I had forgotten that George (travel agent George not Georgie George) had arranged the pick-up from the airport specially so I could go straight onto the highway and wouldn't have to drive through town immediately after pick-up with a left-hand four-wheel drive on strange roads.  Ah well, committed now.

 

I had an hour and a half wait at Whitehorse airport.  By the time I finished at the car hire place I was at the back of the queue that eventually dwindled down to me and one other.  He turned out to be the most interesting person to date.  He works for the Fisheries & Forestry Commission (I think that's who he said it is) and was there on business of some sort.  We sat in the sun discussing hunters, ecology, Iraq, Americans, European, Germans, terrorism and goodness knows what else.  The nice people on the Air Canada desk had ordered a taxi for me when we realised the source had dried up, and he rang twice for himself but all to no avail.  I learned the first lesson of my trip - patience in all things Yukon.  We shared a taxi in the end and he paid for both of us, which was really sweet of him.  I tried to pay my side of course, but he was having none of that.

 

The hotel is pretty outside with a western style façade and boardwalk running the length of it.  My room is nothing out of the ordinary except that it has two double beds – a little overkill for just one person I feel but very comfortable and it's nice to have the space.  I have a great view over the houses towards the mountains.  The room’s clear but the common areas smell of cigarette smoke, which surprises me as I thought Canadians were very against public smoking.

 

When I had settled in I tried going for a walk but the roads are really wide and I was so tired and befuddled that I was too scared to cross the road, even though there were only about four cars around at any one time!  I could only follow the block.

 

I went to the hotel restaurant, the Casca, for ease last night, and so I wouldn’t have to cross the road.  The salad was ok but the service was lousy.  The girl was intent on showing how under pressure she was, saying so outright and sighing with exasperation when I went to pay.  Needless to say I won’t be going back.

 

I managed to last until about nine o'clock before collapsing into bed.

 

Now I've settled in and I’m a bit more awake I can see how nice my room is.  As I write this I’m eating the last of the gluten-free bourbons I brought with me, looking out from the 4^th floor over the dusty streets of Whitehorse to the mountains with their snowy caps.  There’s a fridge with freezer compartment, microwave, filter coffee maker (with one free coffee packet per day plus bottled water), iron & board, TV, hairdryer.  Pretty good set-up all in all.  Not very happy about having to use the lift – claustrophobia an’ all… but there’s no other way up to the rooms.  The lifts are operated by the electronic room keys as a security measure and the doors to the stairs are kept locked against undesirables trying to get in.  Ok getting out so I’m gritting my teeth up and walking down. 

 

The roads weren't nearly so scary this morning so I guess it was just exhaustion that made me so wimpy last night.  I also found the lady on the front desk rather off-putting last night but she’s turned out friendly.

 

This morning I went to the Visitor centre but found there’s very little opening for at least another week and probably up to a month.  That’s ok, I’m coming back!  The guy did suggest a couple of walks that he said were perfectly safe to do on my own.  I wandered along the side of the Yukon a little way then headed back into town for lunch.  I passed a library and went in for a nose around and found they have email access.  Free for 15 minutes on one computer on a first come first served basis but you can also book ahead for up to an hour free although you do have to register with the library first.  Good to know for future reference as the access in the hotel lobby is can$5 per hour.

 

I’d asked the guy at the Visitors’ Centre where I could get a mobile phone for while I was here – that confused him - ‘did I mean a cell phone?’  So after lunch I decided to walk to the industrial area where I’d been told would be the best place.  It was a lot further than I expected; also very hot and very dusty but I got a kick walking along the banks of the Yukon river and enjoying the scenery and mountains that you can see from just about anywhere in Whitehorse.  I could see, but not get near to the snow and ice along the banks.  Majorca heat in spitting distance of snow – weird!

 

The mobile phone idea turned out to be a non-starter.  I wanted one primarily for safety in case of breakdown, and also to phone ahead as I move around.  George had advised me to phone ahead whenever I move on because then if I don’t arrive they’ll come and look for me.  He said people are good like that here.  The pay-as-you-go type is very expensive, better to go for a year's contract.  The problem with that is they need a Canadian billing address.  I was pretty sure Jane would let me use hers in Calgary but then we came to the problem of credit checks.  I don't have a credit history here, only having been in the country 24 hours!  To get round this I could have paid a can$500 deposit refundable after three months but this would tie up a large chunk of money for me.  Both payment methods get more expensive as you move outside the immediate rental area, climbing two, three, four and five times the local call charge depending on where you are.  Similar problems with renting.  Neither would work outside major towns and immediate surrounding areas so they would not meet the requirement for use in case of breakdown etc.  Global network phones are available for rent but at can$250 per month (with a whopping 10 minutes free call time - whoopee!) on top of the deposit, this was also out.

 

As I can use public phones to call ahead (and this hotel has a public phone in the lobby so presumably others will too) I decided so save my money and go without.

 

I inadvertently had a lot of practice crossing the roads thanks to my mobile phone trek and been able to watch the drivers to get a feel for traffic flow.  Still rather confusing though.  Some junctions have traffic lights, plus white lines across the road almost like our zebra crossings.  If they have illuminated signs for pedestrians you have to wait until you are allowed to cross.  Rather funny to see people waiting patiently without a car in sight.  Since cars are still allowed to turn right, even though the walking sign is showing, it pays to be vigilant.  If there are no lights you look for the same white lines on their own.  In this case pedestrians have right of way but you hold out your arm so drivers know you intend to cross.  I’d asked the guy in the Visitors’ Centre about crossing but confused again almost immediately.  A nice lady asked if I needed any help and explained everything - they like us to cross on the white lines but we won’t get arrested if not – just be sure to hold an arm up and out to indicate I’m crossing.  Seems to work!  Everyone is very friendly and helpful.

 

For the most part, even without white lines, I find if I stand at the side of the road and look confused, people will stop and let me across.

 

About those white lines - sometimes you have to look very hard to see them, the harsh winter weather takes its toll and they are faded and sometimes almost non-existent.

 

At the moment I'm not looking forward to driving through town but I guess I'll manage, no other choice really.

 

I went to Sam & Andy's Mexican restaurant across the road for lunch.  It is so friendly and the food is really good and reasonable (to someone used to paying UK prices).  I had a little lie down afterwards – feet were throbbing and my face was red from the sun; and spent the rest of the day browsing the shops.  I got maps for driving, a small ring pad for quick notes, some toiletries and water, plus films.  I must remember to buy things in bulk in Canada, at least can$50 at a time – that way I can claim tax back if it comes to over – rats, I’ve forgotten how much but I must do it!

 

I’ve been worrying about how best to record the trip (I shall have to thanks to my forgettery – and I don’t want to forget anything).  All sorts of ways occurred to me – email only – diary and email all of it – mixture of the both etc and then finally I made a decision : it doesn’t matter – I’ll just do what I feel like, whenever I feel like it!  Whew – that’s a relief!!)

 

All for now

 

PS - notice how I'm chatting with people - oh what a good girl I am!

Tues 29th April 2003

Hi

Made it, got to the hotel about hour an half ago, settled in, eaten and on my way out for a stroll (minus any coat-it's a heatwave!!! although the scuttlebut is that Calgary has just had 8 inches of snow - I don't believe it!)). Met a number of very nice people en-route.

Will send again soon when brain stopped spinning from jetlag.

Not many taxis though, waited 1 and a half hours but had company, nice man from Fisheries & Forestries Commission who shared a taxi eventually and insisted on paying the fare. I like the Yukon!

And so it begins

This time ten years ago I was packing my bags ready to fly out the next day for Canada and Alaska.

I'd actually taken the huge step of deciding to go ahead with my plans for my big adventure.  I'd worked out an itinerary with George, my travel agent, finished work and spent the last few weeks getting lists ready so I didn't forget anything and shopping for warm clothes.  I'd been so excited with all the preparations I'd not really had time to think about what I was doing but the night before I left it hit me.  What on Earth did I think I was doing, going off alone for several months in a strange country?  I'd tried to get some friends interested, at least for parts of the trip but no-one else had either the time or the inclination to see this part of the world.  Most of my friends prefer warmer climes. 

So here I was, on my own!  There were a few complications, the biggest being that I wasn't an outgoing person...panic attacks in crowds, in awe of friends who could talk with a stranger with ease.  Then there was the business of my diet, I was gluten and dairy-free.  For those who don't know me, I suffered with eczema for a lot of years and some other problems so I stayed gluten and dairy free for three years in a last ditch attempt to sort things out.  My problems cleared up and, with only a couple of minor flare-ups in the last ten years sorted by briefly watching my diet again, I've not had any trouble since resuming a normal diet.  It was a shame my trip took place during those three years but it was worth the hassle.  George (the travel agent) was a little worried about me doing this trip so I hadn't mentioned one other little thing to him, in case he didn't want to be get involved with the trip.  The other little thing being that it hadn't been so long ago that I was being investigated for the possibility of multiple sclerosis.  The symptoms had faded, and although they couldn't say for sure what the problem was, they also couldn't say it wasn't MS.  Going through that was probably one of the main things to nudge me into living a dream.  For the record, there's been no recurrence so I can safely assume I'm out of the woods now.

Obviously, it wouldn't make sense now to give dates and days of the week so I'm going to post the emails I sent home as sections of the journey.  Things may look a little odd but you'll get the general idea.  Anway, this trip down memory lane is really for my own benefit, a self-indulgence, so if you're interested, just follow as best you can.

Tonight I'm re-living in my mind the expectations and excitement of that day before I flew out, as well as the panic and worries that I may have bitten off more than I can chew.  Tomorrow...the journey to Heathrow airport for the start of my great adventure.  In two days time I'll be in the Yukon...in 2003.