Thurs, 1st May 2003, Whitehorse to Burwash Landing

 

This morning I found the new laces, packed them safely and threaded the old ones back on so they wouldn't have a chance to go walkabout again.  I packed everything last night so I just needed to cash some travellers cheques and go to the chemist; the chemist eluded me so will have to wait for Fairbanks.  Turns out my face wasn’t red from the sun – I’d broken out in eczema!  On my face!!  Ok, so I’ve had it on my hands before but never on my face – disaster!  I’ve got a tube of Nelson’s homeopathic evening primrose cream with me but it won’t last long at this rate.

 

I phoned the National Cars people who arrived promptly and drove me to the edge of town to pick up the 4 x 4.  I’m a bit confused as to what offices they have where now but no matter.  They were very friendly and helpful.  The only minor slip being my Access card authority.  Apparently it causes delays if you don't notify them you are leaving the country.  Went through ok finally and I was given a telephone nunber to ring ready for any other transactions to let them know where I am and for how long.

 

The place was right next to the Alaska Highway so it should have been easy to get on – in theory - but of course I messed it up and went the wrong way down a slip road.  Luckily I realised very quickly and managed to back up just before a car came at me.  I didn’t even look back at the car hire place, I just knew there’d be someone watching and thinking ‘women drivers!’.

 

I love my green car.  It’s way bigger than I’m used to and I feel queen of the road from my high vantage point. It’s a joy to drive even though it’s taking a bit of getting used to, left-hand drive plus no gearstick.  At one point I guiltily came down from 90  and thought it was because the car was so large and smooth that I hadn’t realised how fast I was going.  After about an hour or so I remembered it was kilometres not miles.  Things get a little confusing regarding speed and distance.  The car is set up for kilometres, road signs/book/map distances are all in kilometres but everyone talks of miles.  Not got to the bottom of why yet.

 

Once I got under way and developed a feel for the car I relaxed and a silly grin took over my face, then I started laughing.  This was it, I was really on my way now, travelling the Alaska Highway – a dream come true!  The views were big, wide and empty, glorious scenery of distant mountains and I had the freedom and privilege of travelling it.

 

Stopped at a viewpoint about 45 minutes later with two other people there.  The "facilities" were two huts but well painted and preserved.  Beneath the seat was a massive drop into the ground masquerading as drainage.  Next time I'll remove my waist money belt first, wouldn't want it to come off by mistake and have to get a fishing line to get it out!

 

I’d reached Haines Junction by lunchtime and picked a place called Glacier View Inn to eat in.  Very unprepossessing place from the outside if not downright off-putting, handwritten signs for motel, petrol and restaurant with four tiny-looking cabins.  Inside it was cosy, clean and full of atmosphere, run by a lady with a wide smile and (presumably) her teenage son.  A couple of old boys talking in an incomprehensible accent in the corner who must have been local as the lad went and sat with them after he served me my omelette and hash browns (fried potato slices) and coffee that just kept coming.  There were smarter looking places but I shall definitely call on the way back if I'm there at an appropriate time.

 

A little further up the road I saw a car coming in the opposite direction with the windscreen smashed so badly I was surprised he could see anything through it.  It was a right mess.  Half an hour later all became clear as I came across road works.  The road was right up with a few workers then just gravel and dust for miles.  When the workmen saw me coming they got in their cars but as they waved and smiled cheerfully as I passed I decided not to take it as a reflection on my driving.

 

I was down to 20mph as any faster I would skid - thank god for the four wheel drive - for the gravel rather than ice!.  A real problem is people passing either way and the stones thrown up from them.  They just don’t care, with even the most massive of rigs going hell-for-leather.  I just let everyone overtake me, I’m in no hurry and I don’t want a bill for chipped paint or damaged suspension; I also don’t want to shake myself loose from my bones.  Another real problem is the plumes of dust thrown up after you, sometimes making it impossible to see.  I developed a cough and wow - the state of my clothes at the end of the day!

 

The rest of the road can be rough even where it’s not been taken up but there are helpful red flags at the appropriate side of the road marking damaged areas.  It pays to heed them, as they could be anything from slightly sunken road to blooming great craters.

 

Destruction Bay was appropriately named as a relatively long stretch of road works ran through it.  The people were ok if not especially friendly but I took the opportunity to refuel (good practice to always do this out here), especially as nearly everywhere is still closed up from the winter.  Fine by me - means those pesky tourists aren't around to get in my way!

 

Missed lots of photo opportunities like the beginning of Kluane Lake (the south end) which was the most beautiful but I still managed to get some good shots.  We are only allowed to stop at designated ‘pull-ins’ – recognising the slightly larger gravel areas at the side of the road as such can be difficult.

 

Arrived Burwash Landing Resort on the northern end of Kluane Lake in good time.  You can’t miss the place, it’s got a giant gold-pan out the front.  At first sight it seemed a little disappointing.  "Resort" seems a little grand and one look at the flaking woodwork; ill-fitting fly screens and basic amenities would be enough to send me on my way if I hadn't been pre-booked.  Luckily I was, and I loved the place.  New towels (four sets for some reason), comfy beds (two doubles again), fresh linen, and spotlessly clean (flaking paintwork not-withstanding).

 

Also, the people are lovely.  The waitress, Marilyn, was very friendly and chatty; and I spent a lot of time nattering with Horace who started a conversation at dinner.  It seemed odd to talk across the room so I asked if I could join him at his table - he looked a little startled but happy enough.  He’s in his 70’s and retired up here from a lifetime in removals, travelling all over Canada and America after he developed cancer of the oesophagus.  He’s one of twenty kids and has umpteen grandchildren and great-grandchildren himself  He spent a lot of time preparing, squaring logs etc, for a cabin he is building, only for a big fire to burn the lot a few years ago.  He’s just preparing another lot and is due to start building soon.  Dean booked me in and does the cooking – seems to come in for a lot of ribbing from the others for being miserable.  Normally they have trout from the lake on the menu but not while it’s frozen over so I made do with the lamb chops.

 

A German and two South Africans had been here yesterday but I was the only one for tonight apart from the roadway maintenance workers and felt right at home.  I had a brief roam around but didn’t stray far as they warned me to be ‘bear aware’ and not to walk on the ice even though most was still four feet deep - it was no longer safe as it was starting to break up.  That was enough to put the wind up me so I stayed close.  Especially since a dog I’d made friends with started barking at me when I headed out the main area and I wondered if he knew something I didn’t,  so I came back.  It’s the sort of thing to take the relaxation out of a walk!

 

I was totally exhausted by this time – probably the altitude, driving or something so I was in bed and asleep by 8 o’clock.